Account by John Bass Dabney of the May 1808 volcanic eruption on São Jorge island

Urzelina, São Jorge, Azores: Iconoclastic flows from Pico de Boa Esperança volcano, starting May 1, 1808.

John Bass Dabney (1766-1826) served as U.S. Consul to the Azores from 1806 until his death. Charles William Dabney (1794-1871) succeeded his father until his death. One of Charles’ sons, Samuel Wyllys Dabney (1826-1893) then served as consul until the last of the family in the Azores returned to the United States in 1891.

For years, Charles’ daughter Roxana Lewis Dabney (1827-1913) amassed and annotated papers from the Dabneys’ decades in the Azores for family annals, which she published privately in three volumes comprising some 1,500 pages: Annals of the Dabney Family in Fayal. Press of Alfred Mudge & Son, Boston, 1899, vol. 1, pp. 22-25.

The three volumes were published as Anais da Família Dabney no Faial, in Portuguese translation by João C. S. Duarte. IAC – Instituto Cultural da Horta, e do Núcleo Cultural da Horta. Angra do Heroísmo, 2004-2006.

N.B. The letter’s original spellings and punctuation are retained in the following text.

— Casa dos Dabney, Horta, Faial.

U.S. President Thomas Jefferson — Official portrait by Rembrandt Peale.

Sir, — It is a great satisfaction to me to have a subject for writing to you, that may not be deemed impertinent. I flatter myself that the narration I now have the honour to lay before you will be received with some degree of interest.

A Phenomenon has occurred here, not unusual in former years, but of which there has been no example in later years. It was well calculated to inspire terror and has been attended with destruction of lives and property. On Sunday the first of May at 1 o’clock p. m. walking on the veranda of lives and property. On Sunday the first of May at 1 o’clock p. m. walking on the veranda of my house, at St. Antonio Fayal, I heard noises like the report of heavy cannon at a distance, and concluded there must be some sea engagement in the vicinity of the Island, but casting my eyes towards the Island of St. George, ten leagues distant, I perceived a dense column of smoke rising to an immense height, and it was soon judged that a volcano had broken out about the centre of the Island. This was confirmed when night came on, the fire exhibiting an awful appearance. Being desirous of viewing this wonderful exertion of nature, I embarked on the morning of the 3d. of May for St. George, accompanied by the British Consul and some other gentlemen and arrived at Vellas, the principal town at 11 a. m.

We found the inhabitants perfectly panic stricken, entirely given up to religious ceremonies and devotions. We learned that the fire of the first of May had broken out in the midst of fertile pastures, hence several leagues S. E. of Vellas, and had immediately formed a crater in size about six hundred feet, which in two days had thrown out cinders and small pumice stone, that a strong North wind had propelled southward, which independently of the mass accumulated round the Crater, had covered the earth from one to four feet in depth, half a league in width and three leagues in length; then passed the Channel (some five leagues) and had done some injury to the Eastern part of the Island of Pico. The fire of this large crater had nearly subsided, but on the evening previous to our arrival, a small crater had opened one league to the north of the large one and only two leagues from Vellas.

After partaking of some refreshment we visited the second crater, the sulphurous smoke of which driving southerly, rendered it impossible to attempt to approach the large one. When we came within a mile of it, we found the earth rent in every direction, and as we approached nearer some of the chasms were six feet wide. By leaping over some of them and making many windings to avoid the larger one, we at length arrived within two hundred yards of the spot ― and saw it in the middle of a pasture, distinctly at intervals, when the thick clouds that swept the earth lighted up a little. The mouth of it appeared to be about five yards only in circumference; the fire seemed struggling for vent; the force with which a pale flame issued forth resembled a Powerful Steam Engine multiplied a hundred fold. The noise was deafening, the earth where we stood had a violent motion. The whole Island seemed as if convulsed ― horrid bellowings were occasionally heard as if from the Bowels of the Earth and earthquakes were frequent.

After remaining there about ten minutes we returned to Town. The inhabitants had mostly quitted their houses and remained in the open air or under tents. We passed the night at Vellas, and the next morning went by water to a small seaport town, one league south of Vellas, called Ursulina, and viewed the part of the country, covered with the cinders before mentioned, and which has turned the most valuable vineyards on the Island into a frightful desert.

On the same day, the fourth of May we returned to Fayal and on the fifth and succeeding days from twelve to fifteen small volcanoes broke out in the fields we had traversed on the third, from the Chasms before described, and had thrown out a quantity of lava which traveled slowly towards Vellas. The fire of these however subsided and the Lava ceased running about the eleventh of May, on which day the large Crater that had been dormant for nine days, burst forth like a roaring Lion with horrible bellowings, distinctly heard twelve leagues distant, throwing up prodigious large stones and lava and illuminating at night the whole Island. This continued with tremendous force until the fifth of June, exhibiting the awful yet magnificent spectacle of a perfect River of Fire, running into the sea, distinctly seen from Fayal. On that day its force evidently failed and in a few days it entirely subsided. The Elevation of this Crater may be about 3,500 feet (?) and its distance from the sea about five miles. The lava inundated and swept away the Town of Ursulina and the country houses and cottages adjacent as well as tile farm houses throughout its course. It as usual gave timely notice of its approach and most of the inhabitants fled. Some of them however remained in the vicinity too long, endeavouring to save their effects and were scalded by the flashes from its stream, which without injuring their clothes took not only their skin but their flesh; about sixty people were thus miserably scalded, some of whom died on the spot, others soon after, and some recovered.

The Judges and Principal inhabitants left the Island very early. The consternation and anxiety among the people was for some days so great, that even their domestic concerns were abandoned, and amidst plenty they were in danger of starving. Supplies of ready baked bread were sent from Fayal to their relief, and Boats were sent to bring away those who had lost their dwellings. In short, this Island heretofore rich in Corn, Cattle and vineyards for exportation, is nearly ruined and a scene of greater desolation and distress has seldom been witnessed.

I send a Sample of Lava, Cinders, etc., of Fayal, by Mr. Livingstone for your Cabinet.

I have the honour to be, &c. &c.

JOHN B. DABNEY.

Compiled by Katharine F. Baker