One of my great-grandfathers was born and raised in the village of Topo on the eastern tip of São Jorge. As a young man he went to sea for over a decade, then settled in northern California. Early in the course of my online genealogical research, I discovered a number of his distant cousins still residing on São Jorge (who warmly welcomed me) in and around the island’s second-largest town of Calheta.

      On May 1, 1808, a volcano began erupting on São Jorge’s south coast at Urzelina (between Calheta and the main town of Velas). Many were killed or badly maimed, and several feet of ash buried nearby buildings — to this day only the top of the church’s bell-tower remains visible. In May 2008, on the eruption’s bicentennial, an azulejo plaque depicting the scene and reproducing a commemorative poem by Urbano Bettencourt were dedicated at the site.

      São Jorge has long been noted for cheeses that enjoy Protected Designation of Origin, made from local milk. Depending on age, they are well-suited for eating (for example, with bread, fruit or condiments*) or cooking.

* E.g., fig jam: http://www.inolongerlikechocolates.com/25-08_calendar_aug.htm