Ocean Voyage—Expenses—First Sight of the {Azo}res—Flores—Horta, the Chief City of Fayal —Island Manners—Caldeira—Ponta Delgardo—{Mu}le Riding Expeditions to the Seven Cities {an}d the Hot Springs.

{Corr}espondence of The Detroit Free Press.

{PO}NTA DELGARDO, ST. MICHAELS.—At {pres}ent there are two lines between the {Azo}res and the United States—one running {fro}m Boston and the other from New Bed{for}d. Each line has one vessel only, both {bein}g fine clipper barks, and capable of ac{com}modating about sixteen cabin passengers {each}. The fare for the round trip is $100, but {I w}ould suggest that the tourist purchase a {voy}age to the islands only, which will enable {him} to return by the other route, or, if con{ven}ient, by steamer to Lisbon and thence {hom}e via England. It is often pleasant to {mak}e such a change, and desirable, also, in {case} you are summoned home by cable.

MONEY AND EXPENSES.

{T}he expenses while on shore for hotel bills, {don}key drives and sundries will be from $50 {to} $100, although the latter amount will be {foun}d most decidedly the safest. At times {Span}nish dollars may be obtained in New York {and} Boston for about ninety-six cents, and are {wor}th in the island $1 20. If they are scarce {Eng}lish sovereigns may be bought at $4 86, {which} here are worth $5 60. American curren{cy is} also accepted at an advance of about three {doll}ars on every twenty. The board at the {hot}els, which is excellent, is one Spanish dol{lar p}er day. A good supply of both heavy {and} light clothing is essential, for the voyage {is o}ften quite cool, and those who are inclined {to} sea-sickness will find Liebig’s extract of {mea}t a very palatable beverage. We were in{form}ed before departing from home that pass{port}s were needed which we obtained at the {Por}tuguese Consul’s at $2 75 each, but they {wer}e never examined on the entire trip. But {on l}eaving the Islands a new one must be pur{cha}sed, which costs $1 80 for the sake of put{ting} pocket-money into the coffers of these pom{pous} officials. This must be done before {the}y allow a vessel to clear from port. In {bar}gaining with these people you will invari{ably} find that they will receive and be satisfied {wit}h half the amount first asked for.

ON A SAILING VESSEL.

{O}n the outward trip we chose the Boston {bark}, represented by C. S. Bartlett & Co., {and} on a beautiful afternoon in May the bark Sarah sailed out of the harbor with {a g}ood breeze and a jolly crew. The ever {cha}nging panorama of the receding city, the {bea}utiful islands and the fleet of vessels in the {bay}, served to enliven the spirits of all on {boa}rd. But a change came over the scene as {the} ship began to rise and fall. One by one {the} passengers began to disappear from view, {and} from below strange and uncertain sounds {ro}se. We could endure it very well in our {own} state room, away from the {nois}e of our companions, but when {the} bell called us to dinner it {was} truly heartrending to witness each {din}er’s desperate struggle to seem interested in {the} proceeding. A few days brought relief {and} we began to enjoy our cruise, which was {mar}red only by one bitter calamity in the {shap}e of a brood of old, weather-beaten hens {that} were often served, as we supposed, for exe{rcise}. The steward remarked that they {wer}e real good chickens, so tough that they {cou}ld stand the sea voyage well! It seems a {shame} that they had not been allowed to die a {nat}ural death. We were fortunate in having {a sti}ff breeze, and after leaving the shores of {Cap}e Cod accomplished the distance of 1,860 {mil}es to Flores in nine days, without changing {our} course once.

LANDING AT FLORES.

{It} was a delightful sail from land to land, {one} fittingly ended in the beautiful panorama {whi}ch the approach to Flores revealed, {ris}ing above the horizon, a hazy outline at {first}, gradually growing clear and blue, varied {her}e and there by the darker shades of the {vall}eys and cliffs, until another hour unfolded in {a}ll its details the magnificence of the scene. {Ris}ing from the sea in precipitous walls sev{eral} hundred feet, battered and broken in fan{tast}ic forms, it rolled away in a {gra}dual slope several thousand feet to volcanic {cone}s—one grand and charming garden. {Trop}ical hedges divided the vast surface into {irreg}ular patches of green of different shades. {Wh}ite as the surf below the low, neat houses {stud}ded the verdant isle—now clinging to the {reces}ses in the cliffs, and then reaching away to {the} very summit, while here and there ancient {cath}edrals look down upon their peaceful and {dev}oted parishioners. There being no harbor {there}, we anchor about a mile from land. The {carg}oes are taken ashore in huge lighters, pro{pel}ed by clumsy oars in the hands of these {bro}wn and hardy boatmen. The oars consist {of} two awkward shaped sticks, lashed to{get}her, at the center of which is nailed a {boa}rd about a foot square, which rests on a {single?} thole-pin. The boats are capable of {car}rying twenty barrels of oil, which, by the {wa}y, is an extravagant article for the ma{jor}ity of these people to use. The duty on {eac}h barrel is $10, and on many other goods a {li}ke proportion. They impose the heaviest {duty?} on articles most necessary to their com{fort}, which is a fair sample of their ideas of {pro}gress. They cling to the customs of former {cen}turies with a death-like tenacity. Some {yea}rs ago an English gardener introduced {whe}elbarrows here, but after loading them native workmen carried load, wheel-bar{row} and all upon their shoulders. The build{ings} are all constructed of stone, which is then {pla}stered on the outside and whitewashed over {and} over again, till the whole town fairly {glis}tens with light. The streets are heavily {pav}ed, and some of them are macadamized {by} the use of lava, which forms a splendid {roa}dway.

HORTA IN FAYAL.

After a short stay we sailed for Fayal, {whi}ch is the best known of all the islands. {Th}e City of Horta is the principal port, but {we} rarely hear it mentioned, the name of the {isla}nd itself being used instead. It has a pop{ula}tion of 8,000 and is decidedly the busiest {isl}e in the group. The harbor is excellent, {bei}ng surrounded on three sides by mountains {and} partly on the ocean side by a breakwater {nea}rly finished. From the sea the city pre{sent}s an imposing and picturesque sight, ex{ten}ding from the cliffs of Point Espalamaca {on} the right around a semi-circular beach to {the} highs of Monta Quiemado [Monte Queimado] on the left. {Fr}om the sea-wall it gradually climbs to the {small}er peaks in the rear, while above all {tow}ers the extinct volcano Caldeira. All the {bui}ldings are white and nestle among gardens {and} groves that remain green all the year {rou}nd. Many massive and ancient churches {occ}upy prominent positions on the hill-side. {At} closer inspection they lose much of their {gra}ndeur from the rudeness of portions of {the}ir architecture and the decay of walls {aro}und them. But these people still look upon {al}l with admiration and follow the customs {of t}heir ancestors who worshiped here three {hun}dred years ago.

CUSTOMS OF THE ISLANDERS.

The women wear a curious garment, con{sis}ting of cloak and hood combined, which {loo}ks hideous. The hood is larger than a small {bar}rel, and requires the constant use of one {ha}nd to manage it. Its sides would make a {spl}endid bill-board. Nearly every person goes {ba}refoot. They are incessant talkers, while {the} shrugging of shoulders and rapid revolu{tio}n of arms lend emphasis to the endless {blab}ber. There is also a fiendish squeak of {th}eir carts, the axles of which turn with the {wh}eels. Most of the stores are mere dens, {lig}hted by the narrow door only, through {wh}ich may be seen workmen huddled to{get}her, with rude tools, trying to earn twenty {ce}nts per day. A few are more pretentious {an}d usually filled with the cheapest kinds of {A}merican goods. The tradesmen and clerks {dr}ess in the styles prevalent in the “States” {so}me years ago. Long vests and enormous {flar}ing-bottom pants are their delight. A good {man}y may be met here who can speak Eng{lish} tolerably well, having spent some time in {ou}r own country or at sea in English or Yan{k}e ships. The greatest novelty in the island {is} the donkey ride.

THE CRATER OF CALDEIRA.

One fine day our party started from the bo{ttom} to explore the crater of Caldeira. After {co}nsiderable difficulty in mounting the sad{dle}s, which resemble stuffed saw-horses, we {gal}loped away at a breakneck pace followed {by} six yelling muleteers. They carried long {stic}ks with a sharp brad in the end with which {th}ey probed the animals till the blood started, all the while uttering startling bowls. A portion of the distance is over a rugged trail, in many places on the edge of a precipice, where great care is needed lest the donkey and driver fall in a heap together. From the summit a strange and grand sight meets the eye. The rim of the crater forms a circle, the diameter being about three miles and the depth 1,700 feet almost straight down a black and ragged wall. The whole interior is a desolate and dreary waste, and causes a shudder at the thought that it might again break forth in showers of burning lava. At the bottom is a small crater several hundred feet high, in the center of which is a small lake containing beautiful gold fish. After a substantial lunch, which was brought from our hotel a distance of ten miles by a small boy, we again took another dose of the jolting motion of our worn-out animals.

GOING TO PONTA DELGARDO [Ponta Delgada].

We were quartered at the Fayal Hotel, kept by Mr. Edwards [Trata-se de José António de Freitas Eduardo ou Joseph A. F. Edwards (agente da Lloyds no Faial e cônsul do Uruguai no Faial, como se confirma num artigo na página 3 de «O Progresso: folha açoriana politica e noticiosa», ano 1, n.º 41, de 2 de Setembro de 1877-09-02 e num artigo na página 3 de «A Persuasão», ano 17, n.º 833, de 2 de Janeiro de 1878. Era florentino, talvez regressado da emigração, o que explicaria a americanização do nome. Note-se que Freitas Eduardo foi procurador na Câmara Municipal de Lajes das Flores junto da Junta Geral do Distrito da Horta (de que chegou a ser presidente do conselho executivo, «A Persuasão», ano 24, n.º 1218, pág. 3, de 20 de Maio de 1885), como se pode ver em artigo d’«O Fayalense», ano 28, n.º 18, de 30 de Novembro de 1884. A origem florentina de Freitas Eduardo corrobora-se em notícias da morte de seu pai, José António de Freitas, nas Flores, n’«O Fayalense», ano 29, n.º 16 , de 15 de Novembro de 1885, página 3, e «O Democrata», ano 1, n.º 51, de 20 de Dezembro de 1885, página 4, que menciona uma missa pelo pai dada pelo vigário do Lajedo. O Hotel Fayal seria vendido a António Gonçalves de Lima. A esposa de Freitas Eduardo chamava-se Marianna.]. The table was fairly loaded with the greatest variety of food, and exceedingly well cooked, and in every way we were shown constant attention. From the balcony a fine view of Pico, a large island, five miles across the channel, is obtained. Rising from the sea, the northern and southern extremities extend gracefully to a hight [height] of 7,000 feet, terminating in the noble Peak of Pico. The scene is ever fascinating, varied by the passing clouds which nearly all the time envelop the upper part of its surface. At times the snowy peak looms above the clouds, and then the picture is one never to be forgotten. We set sail early one evening and after drifting about with shifting winds through the night finally got a rousing breeze. A twenty hours’ run carried us to the harbor of Ponta Delgardo, the metropolis of the Azores and the largest city in the Island of St. Michaels. We landed early in the morning, and, after a close examination of our baggage by scores of hungry custom house officials, were driven furiously in a rickety and dilapidated hack [taxi, de hackney carriage] to Brown’s Hotel [antigo Solar do Parto ou Solar de Nossa Senhora do Parto, actualmente a pousada de juventude de Ponta Delgada, foi fundado por George Brown, jardineiro inglês contratado por José do Canto em 1845 e fixado em São Miguel]. We swept around sharp corners, running over several dogs and often taking in the sidewalks in our path, to the immediate danger of the astonished natives. The hacks are drawn by three antiquated mules, who tear along at a mild gallop, urged on by the cries of the drivers, who in appearance are more antiquated than their steeds.

LITTLE COMFORTS.

The tourist should carry a good supply of tobacco, as the article used here is simply disgusting and the duties are very high. They will allow each passenger less than a pound free of duty, but we smuggled a considerable quantity ashore in our clothing which was not examined. All hands endeavored to exhibit an innocent appearance as we landed, with our pockets bulging out to a frightful extent. The attempt to appear like good little lambs was rather weak. The greatest annoyance is the ever present and persistent beggar, who follows and dodges about like a Jersey musquito, The only remedy, which is saying a good deal, is to press on in silence. Once, however, we were so rudely assailed as to exhaust our patience and our stout canes were brought down upon their heads with such force as to bring them to terms, and they left us with tears in their eyes. Brown’s Hotel was once the residence of one of the “big guns” here [o antigo solar pertencia à família Borges Bicudo da Câmara], who, owing to some sufficient cause, good or otherwise, was obliged to relinquish the estate. It is a large stone mansion, surrounded by beautiful gardens and commanding a fine view of the city and harbor. It has a seven-by-nine chapel of its own, which, although handy, was not used by any of our party. We no doubt needed its influence, but time was limited. The drives here are charming and include many points of unusual interest.

THE SEVEN CITIES.

We succeeded in finding a very good turn out for an excursion to the Seven Cities, about eighteen miles from Ponta Delgardo. The road follows the southeasterly side of the island in many places upon the very edge of high cliffs. It is hard and smooth, and at several points ragged gorges 1,000 feet deep extend to the narrow beach below, where tiny thatched huts cluster barely out of reach of the raging surf. Little flocks of sheep are seen here and there, clinging with wonderful skill to the almost precipitious sides. On our right and far away the ever green peaks tower above the drifting clouds. The panorama unfolds new and varied scenes at every turn as we are rushed along by three mules abreast at a reckless rate, up hill and down alike, never abating our speed at steep descents. An iron shoe is fastened beneath a wheel and at a wild gallop we fairly slide to the level below. It was exhilarating and ceased only when we reached the foot of the mountain trail, where donkeys were in waiting for the climb to the summit. It was a hard journey for the poor little animals, who were constantly urged on by the sharp brads of merciless drivers. The path led up a beautiful ravine stream, with tropical flowers and plants in great profusion. Often we dismounted out of pity for our donkeys, which seemed unequal to the task. They are terribly abused and don’t appear to take much interest in the wild and grand scenery about them. On reaching the summit a scene of loveliness and grandeur suddenly spread out before our astonished gaze. Over 2,700 feet below, apparently isolated from the outside world and encircled by mountain walls as lofty as the ridge where we stood, seven little villages nestled in the midst of a luxuriant carpet of green [fantasia do autor, ou revelação de que nunca por lá terá estado…] on the borders of a bright-blue fresh-water lake. It seemed as though a New England valley had been suddenly transplanted into this wild and gigantic crater to brighten and cheer a once vast and gloomy solitude. From the north, stretching away round to the southeast the ocean appeared like a sea of glass, as far as the eye could reach. The scene was impressive and well worth the time and toil incurred in the trip. There are many small peaks of easy access, which afford magnificent views, suitable for short excursions.

THE HOT SPRINGS.

The most prominent point of interest is the Furness [Furnas] or Hot Springs, which may be reached by a drive over a good road twenty-eight miles distant. The trip may also be taken by boat to Villa Franca on the coast, and thence by donkeys two-hours’ ride up the mountains. It is a favorite resort of the islanders, who have many handsome residences here. The territory is circular in shape, the diameter being about five miles. A great many boiling springs are constantly sending up streams of vapor which at a distance resemble clusters of camp fires. There is a good hotel here and numerous bath-houses, but persons in ill-health should consult their physician in regard to the kind of water to be used. Some of the springs contain large proportions of sulphur and others iron or other minerals. The whole surface presents a curious appearance and many days may be pleasantly spent in this remarkable region.

A LOVELY ISLAND.

The most charming attraction, however, in all the island are the superb gardens, which nature has so profusely endowed with flowers and shrubbery of the richest and most brilliant hues and trees of curious and fascinating shape in endless variety. The walks and driveways of red lava, present a beautiful contrast to the variegated colors on every hand. All parks and gardens, natural or artificial, in our own cities pale before these of St. Michaels, which must be seen to be appreciated. Much more may be said of these islands which are slowly becoming known to our own people, and probably no other excursion can be found, of equal extent and cheapness combined, that will contribute so much pleasure and health to people of all dispositions and inclinations.

BICK.

Research done by Professor Emeritus Manuel Menezes de Sequeira, who is retired and living on the island of Flores. We thank him for allowing Fi, Amentos to publish all of his precious findings.